We had a real whirlwind stop in St Louis. We were there less than 24 hours and crammed a lot of stuff in!
We arrived about 3.30pm after a 4 hour drive from Kansas City and headed straight to C&K BBQ for snoot. Snoot is a type of BBQ made using the snout and cheek of a pig and is unique to St Louis. The best snoot is only available deep in the ghetto of St Louis and we saw some interesting sights while driving around. We were slightly unnerved by the bullet holes in the windows at C&K but it was all fine.
Nick was dissatisfied with the snoot at C&K so we headed to Roper’s Ribs for round two. These were apparently much better. I didn’t eat any but I did devour a delicious pot of their coleslaw. You should have seen them. I’m not even going to post a picture.
After that, we headed to our hotel. The wonderful Hotel Ignacio. It’s the perfect mix of upmarket and trendy without being too posh. I really wish we could have stayed longer than one night. Our hotel room felt like a swanky loft and looked out over the university campus.
Once we’d Googled some directions we headed to the local institution of Ted Drewe’s for some of their famous frozen custard. It’s a really cool place which just has little serving windows so there’s always a nice buzzing crowd hanging around outside the front of the building. When you drive past, it looks like it’s a huge queue but we got served pretty quick given the amount of people there. I chose a micro concrete with Reese’s, which is basically vanilla frozen custard with broken up Reese’s pieces mixed into it (dare I say it, a bit like a McFlurry, but a million times better).
Just over the road and down a little bit from Ted Drewe’s is Donut Drive-in. It’s in a tiny white building on the corner of an intersection and has been there since the 50’s. When we opened the door we were enveloped by the warm, sweet smell of fresh, hot doughnuts and I nearly died of happiness. They were just taking some regular glazed out the oven so we got one of those along with a fresh-out-the-oven glazed jam, a custard doughnut with chocolate on top and a cake-style doughnut which is made in a slightly different way. Four doughnuts cost us $3. Ridiculous.
The first one I tried was the straight-from-the-oven original glazed. It was like biting into a cloud. Me and Nick were just taking sat in the car taking it in turns to bite it, giggling like children with huge grins on our faces like crazy people. I doubt I will ever find a doughnut that good ever again. It is worth the trip to St Louis just for that.
Then (as if we hadn’t squeezed enough stuff in already), we went to Niche for an after-dessert dinner. Niche is totally posh and I hadn’t really realised so I turned up in jeans and Converse in a room full of properly coifed and polished women in glitzy evening dresses. I did have a blazer on so hopefully that made up for it a little bit.
The food was gorgeous. As you can imagine, we were quite full, so we only had a couple of starters between us and a small dessert. We shared a trio of beets and buttermilk followed by carrots three ways and then smoked trout with huckleberry and cocoa nib. For dessert we had a plum upside-down cake with toasted marshmallow ice-cream that was delicious. The chef and owner Gerard Craft came and had a chat with us and was really lovely.
Then we rolled ourselves back to the car and into bed after a very long day!
This morning we awoke to bright blue skies and sunshine. Unfortunately we had to leave very early as we did another 3 hour drive today to a place that shuts at 3pm on a Sunday. We did a quick drive-by of the Arch and off we went. It was pretty impressive. I wish we’d had time to go to the top but I don’t mind too much as I’ll definitely be returning to St Louis in the future for one of those amazing doughnuts so I’ll go to the top then (if the lift can manage!!)
I realise these aren’t the best pictures, I would have loved to have been able to cross the river and get one from the other side of the bank but we really didn’t have time.